Series: Hotels That Live in My Heart. #1 Castello di Vicarello
Castello di Vicarello is a 12th century castle located in western Tuscany, in close proximity to the sea. It is, in so many ways, the quintessential Tuscany property. It is home to a dynamic wine maker and his very talented designer wife. Two of their three sons run the wine operation and hotel operation, while the other was still attending school when I visited. The involvement of the family is obvious as their heart and soul is felt throughout.
At one time, the family lived in Bali for several years before painstakingly renovating the castle over a period of 10 years. They have filled the suites and public spaces of the property with the most stunning (and eclectic) collection of furniture; artwork and objets d’art throughout. It is more reminiscent of a family estate than a hotel in that regard. There are a variety of beautiful and cozy sitting rooms in which to enjoy a glass of wine or sit by the fire. This is only surpassed by the variety of corners outdoors to while away some time – whether it is under the grape arbor enjoying lunch, or on an expanse of lawn overlooking acres and acres of vineyards and rolling hills. Beyond the valley, you can make out the Tyrrhenian Sea in the distance.
As I think back on my stay, I am more inclined to suggest this hotel to couples. It has been awarded the Most Romantic Hotel designation by Mr. and Mrs. Smith hotels. Moreover, I think the property simply lends itself more to adults. It is an intimate property with only seven suites. Steps are uneven; they are lit by lanterns at night; floors are wooden or stone throughout. Furnishings are mostly antiques. Rooms are dimly lit. I feel as though it is a destination to enjoy simple pleasures – wine tastings in the vineyard; cooking classes in a rustic, but fully-outfitted kitchen; yoga class on a platform overlooking the most exquisite countryside; an outdoor jacuzzi in an extra-large wine casket overlooking the same vista; a bicycle ride through the countryside. It is also the perfect place to return to after enjoying a day touring neighboring villages or having a private workshop with a local leather artisan. It is Italian gentry living!
In addition to a number of intimate dining rooms, dinner can be served under the stars on the rooftop of the castle – lit entirely by candlelight, and with wine produced by the family on the estate.
I cannot say enough about the aesthetics of Castello di Vicarello. There are so many thoughtful touches. No corner or surface is without a beautiful vignette arranged to provide “moments”. Moments to notice the deep history of the castle, as well as moments intended to share the owner’s curated collections. It was impossible for me not to want to capture each of these moments to preserve such special memories.
The service is friendly and warm; the food is exceptional and there is a concierge on staff who has worked at some of the finest hotels in Italy. The Maremma area of Tuscany may not be widely known to all – but it should be!